God, I’ve been so lazy with this blog. Almost a year ago now (shit…has it really been that long?) I went on a Griswold-esque European road trip with two of my mates, driving through much of Spain, France and Andorra. Luckily, my mates were pretty accommodating with my continual requests to try different foods and restaurants, and to help me fulfil my ambition of eating foie gras and jamon, where available, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It wasn’t all food though, I made sure to admire the cultural touchstones of the places I visited: from the striking Guggenheim in Bilbao and the majestic medieval ramparts of Avignon, to the flabby, pasty geezers in Benidorm and the grubby hookers of Marseille, I saw it all.
Needless to say, I did eat some ridiculously amazing food on the trip, and have been meaning to recreate much, if not all of it now that I’m back in Sydney.
First up is a dish that I had in a little bistro in Lyon. Everything we ordered that night was fantastic and memorable, but for me, the pick was the Tripe Lyonnaise, which I felt compelled to order, because, you know, I was in Lyon. It was a great dish, with a terrific balance of sweetness and sourness, and I think this recipe comes pretty close to replicating what I ate on that night, though I have made a few changes to personalize it a bit.
It’s a very simple dish with few ingredients, so start with the best ingredients you can get and remember to take utmost care with every step to make it as perfect as it can be.
1 kg tripe
4 brown onions
3 bay leaves
1 can tomatoes
1 litre chicken stock
4 rashers of bacon
8 cloves garlic
1 stick cinnamon
Teaspoon of cloves
Forum chardonnay vinegar
Knob of butter
Bunch of parsley, chopped
Start by sauteeing the bacon, 5 cloves of garlic and one of the onions, chopped roughly, in a saucepan on a medium heat for 10 minutes or so, getting a bit of colour on the bacon and onion. Deglaze with the chicken stock and add the bay leaves, the tomatoes, the cloves and the cinnamon and bring to the boil. Wash the tripe thoroughly and add to the saucepan, lower the heat and simmer for 2-3 hours. Remove the tripe from the stock and allow to cool.
Next, finely slice 3 onions and sautee them gently along with 3 whole cloves of garlic for 45 minutes or so, until the onion is soft and stringy and caramelized. Pick out the garlic and discard.
Once the tripe has cooled, slice into strips and coat in flour, shaking off the excess. Heat some oil until very hot, then quickly shallow fry the slices of tripe until golden. At this point, add some butter to the pan (as much as you feel comfortable using, but really, the more the better) as well as the onions and stir through the tripe. Finally, add a good splash of the vinegar and the chopped parsley and stir everything together. Serve!